Category Archives: Indian Travel

Exploring Goa – XXV – Sunny Palolem Once Again

Flashback – Kartik’s in Sunny Palolem so far and the adventure begins now. To read his other articles on what to explore in Goa, Click here.

When the sun comes out, you are the best judge to decide, whether you douse yourself in oil and layback on a beach bed, or to explore where the curve of the beach takes you to! I loved the hills in the background, and decided to walk along!

image001I walked along the curve of the beach, and increased my pace by walking along the wetter part of the beach. It’s a good base for your crocs to make you walk a tad faster.

image002Never Far away from the constant chatter of the boatmen and their plans to get a load of people to see Dolphins.

image003Given the heat building up, we mid way decided to walk inside the forest in the shade of the trees. The Blue and Green looked lovely.

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Exploring Goa – XXIV – The Palolem Beach Journey Continues

By Kartik Kannan

image011As you set out to walk further, The morning rays are just making its inroads into the sands, and the filtered light through the trees is just slowly neutralizing the morning haze and chill.

image012And if you thought you could head straight into the sea for a morning dunk, you’d have to brave a little chill in the Arabian Sea!

image013And you’d also realize that while the Sun is out, the Bikinis are yet to come on!

image014It takes a little more than a couple of hours of the sun, to inject life into Palolem, to get the Lifeguards at their position!

Exploring Goa – XXIII – It’s About the Palolem Beach-lings Now!

By Kartik Kannan

image006It’s tough to  not notice the colorful cottages along the beach stretch. While you catch a beer with the folks who run the shacks,  they will tell you that it costs them about 100,000 INR to set up 4 shacks. Since Goa has a rule of no permanent structures on the beach, these shacks are built every year in October, and are pulled out and stored in a nearby warehouse in April-before the monsoons. So the shacks that have a median price of 300-1000 normally, peaks upto 2500-4000 closer to the Christmas/New Year season.

image007When you sleep over, and wake up the next morning, you would realize that mornings make for some nice peaceful walks to explore Palolem, in all the colour and splendour of the Goan boats, when the rest of the beach is yet to wake up!

image010The Goan shack owners obviously care for their higher revenue segment customers from the west, so they adequately instruct early birds, to not disturb ‘the sleepy people’.

image008While you wander early in the morning, there are no cafes open to serve breakfast. Once I’ve had my bath, I usually start feeling ravenously hungry, and I realize I have very few options. The best option is to get into town on your 2 wheeler, and get some Misaal Paav’s for breakfast!

image009Sometimes, when a café is open, you’d have to just set your gaze on the Salt and Pepper bottles on the table, or the sea that’s out of focus in the background, since your Omlette or Tea is being prepared in the Sussegaad Goan way. But one of the special mentions I’d have is for ‘Ma-Rita’ café, whose French Toast and Potato Cheese Soup are brilliant!

Single Woman In A Village

malathy in a village

By Malathy Madathilezham 

This is the first time I am living on my own in a remote little place in Maharashtra (actually not as remote as some of the other places my travels have taken me.. but yet). This is my first job after graduating from Tata Institute of Social Sciences this March.

All my life I have been travelling. “I have studied in 14 different schools!” is something you will hear me say as part of my introduction. Yeah I know its a bit corny but yet. But all the traveling and living has been in a sheltered and protected manner and largely very comfortable. The culture and way of living mostly urban. I have never experienced rural life until very recently during the course of my two year study and the training that I received in my organisation. I have read enough and more but experiencing it shows how different life in ‘Bharat’ is from that in ‘India’. Even more so being a woman…

No, I am not going on a tirade against gender discrimination here… don’t worry. Just a few points on what I constantly find myself thinking about.

I am really privileged. Yes, I am. My birth has guaranteed me certain success in life even if I am mediocre in my performance. Unless off course I am really stupid or have real bad luck!! I cannot imagine being born a woman in one of these villages. Off course then I would simply be blissful in my ignorance and thankful about whatever I have.

(Lack of) Information is power. This is the game people play here. It is not that there are not enough government schemes, or opportunities to help people. But there is no smooth flow of the information regarding these to those who need it. Illiteracy is not the only reason here. A few people have the monopoly over the access to this information and they try their best to keep that monopoly.

The slow pace of life. Its really slow. In addition, the more you make someone wait, the more important you are. This is the culture here. Getting used to it takes time.

A single woman living (so far) away from her parents and native is a shock for many. “ Even boys will not be so daring!” was a quip by a Gram Sevika when I told her that I am from Kerala. Everyone is curious to know what I am doing here. To add to that curiosity is the fact that I have really short hair right now. So then dealing with the number of questions that a random shopkeeper, autowala or tai on the road can sometimes be simply frustrating! There are days that I don’t feel like going out to avoid this!

I love to cook!! I never thought I would say this but it is true! Yeah am not so organised or planned as my mother but yet I realise that I actually look forward to cooking something different and tasty everyday .

Well that is it for now… Looking forward to more learning and understanding the rural reality…

Exploring Goa – XXII – The Palolem Beach

By Kartik Kannan

image001When in Palolem, get your hand on a canoe, and check on Kayaking into the sunset. You would be the center of attraction for all the people on the beach trying to zoom into the golden waters.

image002Do  ear marked a couple of islands to visit the next morning early! That little island in the silhouette, by the way is the Canacona or Butterfly island, accessible by foot only during low tides or accessible by a boat. What that means is when the high tides come, your land becomes an island with no way to get to the mainland, until you swim your way against the tide!

image003If you feel, the sunset is better enjoyed by taking a dip in the waters, do remember to keep an eye out for the life guards who are posted all over Palolem beach.

image004While the sun’s golden rays make the water having a Midas touch, it doesn’t quite leave the beach huts! The beach huts too are illuminated. If you’ve checked into a resort a mile away from the beach, try to check out and book yourself a beach hut on the beach! That’s when sunsets are best served!

image005If you are staying on the beach, you’d soon realize that watching the waves weave patterns on the wet sands can be quite an interesting thing to bet on!

Indian Street Cricket From The Eyes Of Jack Hoyle – 3

The final part of the three-part series on Street Cricket in India from Jack Hoyle. Watching these pics and his travel, one thing is sure, he definitely has a good book in his camera. Looking forward to much more from him. 

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A young boy shows off his cricket ball as a game gets underway in a temple courtyard, New Delhi.

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A youngster waits in the wings as the older boys show him how it’s done.

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Next man in.

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It’s not just boys who are mad about cricket, plenty of girls are too. A group of boys and girls play in the shadow India Gate, Delhi.

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A young boy takes a large stride as the ball goes past the bat and towards India Gate, Delhi.

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The ball goes flying over the keepers head and towards the government buildings.

Keep watching this space because Jack is going to give us his presentation on Myanmar next, his last place of stay. 

Indian Street Cricket From The Eyes Of Jack Hoyle – 2

Here’s presenting the second part of the three-part series on Street Cricket in India from Jack Hoyle. Watching these pics and his travel, one thing is sure, he definitely has a good book in his camera. 

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The batsman makes a dash for it and picks up a quick single.

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Any patch of land will do. A recently ploughed field hosts an impromptu game.

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The ball gets lost down a rabbit hole

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A young batsman takes a swing.

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That’s what mostly happens in the ultra-short format on the streets. A big swing and a miss.

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No space is free from cricket. Local common ground in Khajuraho is taken over by a group of cricket players.

Exploring Goa – XIX – Continuing the Tiracol Fort Trail

By Kartik Kannan

8An Overcast sunset just reinforces the Portuguese image.

9Never too late to send folks back home a digital postcard on where you are in Goa, if you happen stare at this.

10There’s a little Jesus statue there, and there is a legend that you ask this Jesus statue around moon rise, about Goa’s infamous moon light rave parties, the statues hand will show the direction of the party. This legend was made up by me a few minutes back to wake you up to the fact that such parties don’t exist anymore, due to the crackdown by media and Goa Tourism authorities.

12Moving aside to the other side of the fort, as we climb the steps, this brings us to the dining area.

13The dining area is what people come here for, to take a panoramic shot with the sea in the background. It’s one of the most stunning places to be enjoying a meal!

14The view across your tables of the Goan Mainland and Kerim Beach!

15A closer zoomed in view of Kerim Beach from Tiracol Fort.

Indian Street Cricket From The Eyes Of Jack Hoyle

Jack Hoyle is writing a book on the madness that cricket incites in Indian minds. He is a fascinating photographer and here he produces street cricket in India while he travelled the country during the IPL. Here’s presenting the first part of the three-part series. Enjoy 🙂

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In the backstreets of New Delhi a group of youths squeeze a quick game in.

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In Varanasi a group of boys find space between the winding alleys. If the wicket keeper misses it’s a long chase to retrieve the ball out of the Ganges.

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The emblem of a street cricket club in Varanasi.

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A man sits oblivious as a young cricketer strikes the ball, while playing on the banks of the Ganges, Varanasi.

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A typical Sunday in Khajuraho; the streets are closed and the adults look on as the young boys take each other on.

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A dubious action, but you can’t fault the effort as a young bowler comes steaming in.

Exploring Goa – XIX – Tiracol Fort

Kartik Kannan, continues taking you on his Goa trail, and the next destination in the series as we go further north, is the magnificent fort-hotel by the Arabian Sea- Tiracol Fort.

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Once you have boarded at the Tiracol Side of the land, you need to find a way to get to Tiracol fort. There are 2 places that the boat can leave you, depending on whether it’s a public boat or a private boat. The private boat leaves you in a slippery part of the land, from which the fort is about 400 metres by walk, and it costs anywhere between 200-300 for 3 people in a boat. The public ferry is free if you’ve come vehicle-less. My suggestion is to bring your 2 wheeler on the ferry, and drive your way back to the fort. This is the best option to commute, else you can take a private taxi/auto and pay 200 Rs for a round trip. 2 kilometres and 10 minutes later a wonderful fort opens up.

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The Orange all over welcomes you, and the slender chairs in black against the Orange walls, subtly lets you know the classiness of the place.

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As you walk out of the entrance, you see the kitchen on your right and…

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….The rooms on your left. The rooms are curiously named after every day of the week. You can book your rooms if you like the place, through Stayzilla.com.

7The Fort has this area for a foyer where guests can meet up. It looks very Portuguese in its architecture.